Caring for rabbits and kits

If you suspect your rabbit is pregnant, the first step is to separate the male rabbit (buck) from the doe before the kits are born. This is because a doe can become pregnant again within 24 hours of giving birth. If they are bonded, keep the buck in an enclosure close by where the doe can still see and smell him. This reduces the stress that may occur when separating a bonded pair.

After separating, you should have the buck desexed to avoid future accidental litters. Once the kits are weaned, the doe can also be desexed safely. Male rabbits can remain fertile for up to 6 weeks after desexing. So, keep him separate from undesexed females during this time. See this article on desexing rabbits for further information.

A rabbit’s gestation period is around 30-33 days. The kits are born without fur, blind, and deaf, but will begin to grow fur two or three days after birth. Their eyes and ears are open by day ten.

Provide a safe, quiet nesting area for the pregnant doe. A nesting box with soft bedding, such as shredded paper, straw, or hay is ideal. This can be as simple as a cardboard box or a covered cat litter tray in an indoor enclosure. The box should be large enough to prevent crowding but small enough to keep the kits warm. The doe’s instinct will be to create a protective, ‘O’ shaped nest, pulling fur from her body mixed with hay to keep the kits tucked up together so they stay warm. A high lip at the front helps the doe jump in and out of the nest while keeping the kits secure.

If your rabbit enclosure is outdoors, the doe will typically give birth in the sheltered, dry area of the hutch. If the kits are born in an exposed spot, move them to a dry, covered space like an indoor enclosure. Make sure the ‘O’ nest is moved with them and stays intact.

If the kits are cold, a hot water bottle can be placed under a blanket next to the nest to warm them up. In colder weather keep the doe and kits indoors or ensure the hutch is warm, dry and well-insulated. Extra hay can help with warmth. The roof of the accommodation should be covered if not kept under shelter.

If you have any concerns about the doe's health or notice changes in her behaviour, like low appetite or energy, contact your veterinarian immediately.

For further information on indoor and outdoor housing, see our article on creating an enriching home and environment for your rabbits.

The doe will feed the kits only once or twice a day. This will only take two or three minutes at a time. Unlike cats or dogs, does are not particularly maternal and will keep their distance from kits unless they are feeding. Don't force the doe to stay with her kits. It is important to give the doe constant access to fresh hay, pellets, greens and water to maintain her milk production.

Kits will begin to eat solid food at about 18 days of age. While they are growing, they require increased nutrients for growth and development. Give them unlimited good quality hay, preferably lucerne. It contains higher amounts of calcium and protein. A young rabbit is quite susceptible to digestive issues, particularly if their diet changes abruptly. Once the kits are eating a lot of hay each day, give high-quality rabbit pellets free choice until 6 to 8 months of age. Above this age, gradually decrease the pellets to the recommended adult amount. Small amounts of vegetables can be gradually introduced once they are 12 weeks old. If there are any signs of digestive upset, the newly introduced vegetable should be removed immediately.

Avoid starchy or high-sugar foods like legumes, beans, peas, corn, bananas, and grapes. These can cause digestive issues in young rabbits due to their sugar content. Fruit should be given only as an occasional treat.

If you can, separate the doe during feeding time to prevent the kits from eating her food, which could cause digestive upsets. Otherwise, keep a close eye on the kits for any signs of diarrhoea or faeces stuck to their bottoms, which might indicate dietary problems.

For more information on rabbit nutrition, see our article on what to feed your rabbits.

Handle kits gently and only when necessary. Wash your hands before handling them and always pat the doe to transfer her scent to your hands. Each morning and evening check the kits to make sure they are warm, active and hydrated (plump rather than shrunken). If any kits are isolated, gently move them back to the nest to keep them together.

Do not change the nesting box for the first week. After this, you can replace the soiled bedding underneath the nest, which will need to be changed regularly as the kits will toilet in the nest. Always ensure that some old bedding remains so it smells familiar. At around three weeks, the nest can be removed altogether.

Once the kits reach 8 weeks of age, they can be handled more regularly which will help them become more comfortable around humans.

How to handle

Rabbits are prey animals and feel most comfortable with all four feet on the ground. Their spines are fragile and can be easily injured if dropped or struggling. However, with patience and gentle handling from a young age, you can teach them to become more comfortable being picked up and held.

When handling kits under two weeks old, gently support their body by placing one hand on each side. For older kits, support their chest and rump while keeping their legs against their body. Once you have the kit in your hands, hold them close to your body to make them feel secure. Always support the entire body when placing them back down to prevent any injury.

How not to handle

Never pick up a rabbit with their ears, tail, legs, or scruff of the neck. This is dangerous and could injure the rabbit.

Holding rabbits on their back until they go perfectly still as if they are in a trance, is known as “tonic immobility”, “hypnotising” or “trancing”. This is a cruel way of handling rabbits as it is an automatic fear response which causes the rabbit to “play dead”.

For further information on handling rabbits see our 'How to safely handle your rabbits' article.

From four weeks of age, kits can start spending short periods outside in warm weather. This will help them adjust to varying temperatures. It will also provide them with exercise and enrichment and a chance to eat grass. They should always be supervised and placed in a secure, predator-proof area.

At 8 weeks, you can separate the kits from the doe. At this age, they will be independent enough to care for themselves and can be rehomed. When rehoming rabbits, it’s essential to adopt them out to live with another desexed rabbit, as rabbits are social animals.

Ensure that they are microchipped and desexed, if old enough, prior to rehoming. This helps to reduce the number of unwanted animals. Rabbits can be microchipped from 10 weeks of age. Desexing can be done once the male rabbit’s testes have descended, usually at 10-14 weeks. Does can be desexed at 4-6 months of age, depending on the breed.

If not desexed, separate male and female rabbits before they sexually mature at approximately 4-6 months of age. Otherwise, you will have more litters of kits on your hands!

A list of veterinary clinics that are experienced with rabbits can be found here.

Rabbit Haemorrhagic Disease, or Rabbit Calicivirus Disease, is caused by a virus, RHDV. RHDV is a highly contagious, usually fatal disease that can affect all domestic and wild rabbits. To protect your rabbits, vaccinate them with Filavac from 10 weeks of age, with annual boosters.

For further information, see Rabbit Haemorrhagic Disease Virus and Rabbit Vaccination in New Zealand.

For further information on rabbit care, see our Rabbit Care Brochure (PDF).